“The Three Games of Men”: Celebrating Naadam Festival in Mongolia
July 2022
The overcast sky loomed heavy as spectators and participants gathered on a flat expanse of grassland. Our vehicle jostled over the uneven terrain, and I couldn’t help but feel a pang of envy watching others arrive on horseback, galloping with effortless grace. The scene was a vibrant mosaic of color against the endless green—Mongolian men, women, and children proudly dressed in brightly hued deels, the traditional Mongolian attire, marking the occasion with elegance and pride.
This was Naadam, one of Mongolia’s most significant national holidays. Celebrated annually across the country, the festival showcases the “three games of men”: wrestling, archery, and horse racing. Despite the traditional name, modern Naadam welcomes women and girls to participate in archery and horse racing, though wrestling remains exclusively male.
We had arrived in the sum—village—of Tosontsengel, nestled in Khovsgol province in northern Mongolia. Children buzzed with a mix of excitement and nerves as they prepared for the horse racing event. Mongolian horses, small but resilient, are ideal for this race, which relies on young jockeys, some as young as five years old, to guide them over distances of 10 to 15 kilometers.
Before the race began, adults performed a ritual steeped in tradition, pouring milk or beer over their horses’ backs—a gesture believed to bring good fortune. With their steeds blessed, the young jockeys embarked on the 14-kilometer trek to the starting line, a procession charged with anticipation.
Some time later, the crowd shifted back toward the finish line as the first riders emerged in the distance. The sight of the children, cheeks flushed red, pushing their horses with every ounce of strength, was electrifying. Finally, the race concluded, and eight-year-old Burentogs collapsed to the ground, his disappointment palpable. Last year’s victor, he had hoped for another triumph but sighed, “me and my horse are tired now. It was a long race.”
Each summer, families journey across Mongolia to celebrate Naadam with their loved ones, gathering at their local sum to partake in or witness the games. The festival is not just about competition but community and culture. Traditional foods like khuushuur—a meat-filled dumpling—are savored, and evenings are spent in the warmth of a ger (Mongolian tent), where families watch wrestling matches broadcast on TV. Men often toast the occasion with airag, a fermented horse milk beverage, while the vibrant clothing and shared traditions of Naadam highlight Mongolia’s enduring spirit and heritage.
Young men ride horses around the festival grounds on the first day of Naadam in the village of Tosontsengel in northern Mongolia.
A herd of horses head out to graze on the shore of Lake Khovsgol in northern Mongolia. The lake is a popular tourist destination for Mongolians during the Naadam holiday.
Spectators wait in the rain for the horse race to begin.
The horses are measured to make sure they’re under a certain height to be eligible for the race.
A young competitor prepares for the horse racing event at a local Naadam festival in northern Mongolia.
A young woman rides a horse around the festival grounds.
A man pours beer over his horse’s back in a ritual believed to invite good fortune.
Riders gather before they head to the start line, some 14kms away.
A young rider prepares for the race.
A young rider thunders towards the finish line.
Children race to the finish line.
A young rider is visibly disappointed after not winning the horse race.
Horsemen gather around the outside of the arena to watch the wrestling event.
Four-year-old Byambadulam shows off her traditional Mongolian clothes inside her family’s ger (traditional Mongolian tent) near Khovsgol Lake in northern Mongolia.
Eighty-two-year-old Bor used to train race horses when he was young. “When I was young I bought horses from different parts of the country to make a strong breed,” he told me. “I won the horse race many times but during communism there were no medals, instead we won teapots with blue silk scarves.”
A young rider rounds up a herd of horses ready to milk the mares to produce airag. Airag is a popular alcoholic beverage in Mongolia made from fermented horse milk.
Women prepare khuushuur – a traditional food that’s similar to a dumpling filled with meat – inside a ger at the Tosontsengel Naadam festival.
Frying khuurshuur in a ger at the festival.
Customers wait for the khuushuur to be served.
A ‘drive-thru’ on horseback, youngsters ride up to the ger to buy khushuur.
Naadam is an opportunity for young people to socialize and get to know each other.
During the Naadam holiday many Mongolians spend time at Lake Khovsgol, a popular tourism destination for locals as well as international tourists.
Five-year-old Lkhagvaa (left) and her sister Lkhamma, 6, ride horses at their family home near the sum – village – of Katgal in Khovsgol province of northern Mongolia. Despite their love of horses and riding as fast as they possibly can, their father Batolzii is reluctant to let them compete in their local Naadam festival due to concerns over their safety.
